Lino Maga
Barbacarlo & Montebuono (Lombardia, Italy)
Lino Maga’s family has been making wine in Broni, Lombardy since 1886. It’s pretty much as simple as that. Lino, who died a couple of years ago, was no doubt a traditionalist in the old world sense, but he remains a blueprint for the hardcore naturalists that have come since. Of utmost importance to Maga was stressing the uniqueness of each vintage, and never trying to change what the weather and conditions each year dictated in the winemaking. Every year the approach remained the same; picking grapes selectively and at full maturity, macerating in accordance, and pressing off to large casks for rest with a simple basket press. And yet in the most exciting of ways, the results of each vintage vary wildly—sometimes these wines are completely elegant, soft, sometimes completely wild, fizzy, tannic and in your face. But no matter what, there is always a sensual and almost maximal sense of harmony in these bottles—shapeshifting texture and flavor combinations that are likely to be a new experience for even the most seasoned drinkers. Rumor has it that Napolean was getting drunk off of the wines from these same hills, and if the wine he indulged in was anything like Lino’s, I can see why.
Barbacarlo and Montebuono are the two parcels that the Magas exclusively make wine from, and each bottling is a blend of all grapes from each parcel, respectively.
Montebuono 1986
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta, Barbera
$180
Montebuono 1997
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta, Barbera
$180
Montebuono 2000
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta, Barbera
$150
Montebuono 2005
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta, Barbera
$160
Barbacarlo 2016
Croatina, Uva Rara, Ughetta
$145