After all of these years spent as both amateurs and professionals, we continue to be inspired by natural wine; how it makes us feel (high), what it can do to our own ways of seeing the world, and perhaps most importantly how it brings people together.
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Els Jelipins
Gloria Garriga
Alt-Penedés, Cataluña
How do you pronounce a word that doesn’t exist?
There aren’t many rosés that transcend the form, but Gloria Garriga’s Vi de Taula Rosat it one of them. A gentle pressing of Sumoll, and with a dash of Macabeu that in our opinions holds up to the greats like Alain Castex’s Canta Mañana or Bernard Bellahsen’s Clair de Braises (produced only in 21). In fact, it’s the former whose wine I thought I was drinking when I was blinded on a bottle of vin rouge at Yaoyu in 2023. I swore it was an early 2010s vintage of Visinum but in fact it was Gloria’s glorious Roig from 2017. Both are rustic wines from the south that contain a deep modernity to them, they seek and never find. There is mystery in Gloria’s wines, a sensual and salty beauty that to be completely honest, makes this wine appropriate really at any moment—pure mineral beauty from near the Mediterranean sea.
Vi de Taula Rosat 2023
Sumoll, Macabeu
$54