Domaine Derain

Burgundy, France

Back in my nascent days of natty imbibing, Burgundies seemed snooty and posh, contrived models of excellence that only less adventurous drinkers went for—not for me. But now, things have changed a bit. And while I’m not exactly reaching for Burgundies on most evenings, this is the time of year to do so. I’ve grown to love the pleasures of the Burgundian outsiders like Dominique Derain and Julien Guillot, growers invested both in the natural ways of things, as well as making sure that their liquids feel a bit more plush and fancy in our glasses. While our offering of Domaine Derain (now at the helm of Julien Altaber) is short this year, it’s nevertheless strong with three stellar cuvées all symbolical of the domaine.

A few notes from Derain’s importer Josh Eubank below:

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2020
Chardonnay
$90

"En Remilly" is Saint-Aubin's most celebrated terroir and Julien's is the only one I know of to be vinified without additives. Long elevage in barrel allowed this wine to clarify naturally, giving it a gentle oxidative quality and beautiful concentration. Pretty much my favorite chardonnay in France and from one of the greatest vintage of Burgundy since I've been in the business.

Pommard Les Petits Noizons 2021
Pinot Noir
$77

In a hot year, Petits Noizons tends to deliver powerful, high-toned pinot noir. In cooler years, such as 2021, it shows a more floral side.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Vosne 2019
Pinot Noir
$126

Among the oldest and poshest of Julien's holdings, inherited from Dominique. Gevrey tends to take a few years to show its stuff but 2019, which was a rather cold and rainy year, is drinking well early.