Domaine Derain

(Burgundy, France)

Carole and Dominique of Domaine Derain at the dinner table (Angers, France, 2020)

Dominique Derain, a native of Beaune, does not present himself in typical Burgundian fashion. Exuding more of a cool guy boho surfer vibe rather than the standard puffy vest image of the serious Burgundian winemaker (nose in glass, neat rows of barrels behind, and dramatic floor lighting), Dominique has for years existed in the liminal spaces between regional traditionalism and the sort of artful contemporary winemaking that is mostly happening outside of Burgundy’s ‘noble’ borders. Derain’s wines are found in both haute cuisine institutions as well as neighborhood bistros and brasseries, and for me it’s within this dichotomy that the wines fit. Bottles just as at home at neighborhood watering holes or curated into Berlin’s newest 20 course experimental tasting menu. Recently, Julien Altaber, Dominique’s long-time assistant bought the domaine with his partner Carole Schwab, and while Dom is most certainly still around as a mentor, the domaine, located in Saint-Aubin, has become a sort of playground for Julien’s more of the now winemaking style.

Just in time for the end of the year, I’m pleased to offer a small collection of Domaine Derain wines ranging from 2017 to ‘19, and from a variety of terroirs. I find all of these bottles as perfect drinks for the table around a festive meal, and especially as textbook examples of wines that can satisfy even the most Cali Zin and Syrah obsessed boomer uncle who stubbornly swears off ‘natural wine.’

Bourgogne Aligoté 2019
Aligoté
$30

Landre 2018
Chardonnay
$40

Saint-Aubin 2019
Chardonnay
$58

Les Combes au Sud 1er Cru 2017
Chardonnay
$69

Le Ban 2019
Pinot Noir
$49

La Plante Chassey 2019
Pinot Noir
$61

Les Petits Noizons 2019
Pinot Noir
$87