Dominique Derain, a native of Beaune, does not present himself in typical Burgundian fashion. Exuding more of a cool guy boho surfer vibe rather than the standard puffy vest image of the serious Burgundian winemaker (nose in glass, neat rows of barrels behind, and dramatic floor lighting), Dominique has for years existed in the liminal spaces between regional traditionalism and the sort of artful contemporary winemaking that is mostly happening outside of Burgundy’s ‘noble’ borders. Derain’s wines are found in both haute cuisine institutions as well as neighborhood bistros and brasseries, and for me it’s within this dichotomy that the wines fit. Bottles just as at home at neighborhood watering holes or curated into Berlin’s newest 20 course experimental tasting menu. Recently, Julien Altaber, Dominique’s long-time assistant bought the domaine with his partner Carole Schwab, and while Dom is most certainly still around as a mentor, the domaine, located in Saint-Aubin, has become a sort of playground for Julien’s contemporary winemaking style.
Carole and Dominique of Domaine Derain at the dinner table (Angers, France, 2020)
Just in time for the end of the year, we’re pleased to offer a small collection of Domaine Derain wines ranging from 2018 to ‘20, and from a variety of terroirs—perfect drinks for the table around a festive meal, and especially as textbook examples of wines that can satisfy even the most Cali Zin and Syrah obsessed boomer uncle who stubbornly swears off ‘natural wine.’ I’m not sure a Gevrey-Chambertin like this exists elsewhere...
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Sur le Sentier du Clou” 2020
Saint-Aubin “En Vesvau” 2019
Saint-Aubin Les Meurgers des Dents de Chien 2018
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Le Puit” 2020
Mercurey “La Plante Chassey” 2019 MAG
Gevrey-Chambertin “En Vosne” 2018