Pierre Groger
Husseren-les-Châteaux, Alsace

Pierre Groger, a native of Colmar, spends his days working for the quixotic Bruno Schueller, and his evenings in his own vines just below the lieu-dit Bildstoecklé, known for its limestone rich terroir. Pierre holds just three ares (0.3 hectares) cumulatively of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Pinot Noir, and there are a few vines of Chasselas, Savagnin, and Sangiovese as well that go into the whites and reds, respectively. The project is refreshingly straightforward, just like Pierre himself: the Riesling is pressed directly, and the Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir are both macerated in whole bunches. Whereas Schueller is known to pick last in the area and to eschew sorting in favor of a more botrytised feel, Pierre picks relatively early in comparison, favoring a maturity that hits before botrytis. Having such a small amount of vines, Groger is dedicated to sorting and vinifying with only the best grapes possible, ones he’d actually like to eat, himself. Neither wood nor ouillage are used in the vinification, in favor of sandstone jars and cuves in various forms without topping. The resulting wines feel paradoxical; lush aromatics give way to bone dry mouth feels that are taut, cerebral and heady, delicate, open and smooth all at once. Groger’s bottles are much more than a contrasting take to the extremes of his boss. These are special wines with a personality all their own that highlight the unique limestone laden soils of the south of Alsace, and we are very fortunate to be able to offer even a small amount of Pierre’s truly hands-on work.