Le Briseau

Nathalie Gaubicher Heredia and Emile Heredia (Jasnières, France)

The return of Nathalie and Emile has me in a bit of a nostalgic mood, I have to admit.  

I feel like—for whatever reason, and I’m not even sure why, myself—the Patapon wines tend to get written off by the more deep cut minded drinker as entry level or basic or something like this. But quite on the contrary, the 2020 Patapon Blanc from Nathalie is absolutely ripping, with a confectionary nose that leads to an incredibly energetic palate containing a lovely balance of fruit, minerality, and acid. 

Patapon Rouge is maybe less avant garde than its Blanc counterpart, but it’s still a fantastic expression of Pineau d’Aunis, and a bottle perfect for introducing the special grape to the uninitiated.

Lastly, Le Verre des Poetes, extremely old-vine Pineau d’Aunis from Emile Heredia is one of the more profound wines that I’ve had in recent memory. This is peppered and fruity with elegant tannins that seem to melt away the longer the bottle stays open. Recently tasting through a wide assortment of new wines over some beef noodles from Woon, this was the bottle a friend and I kept returning to, both of us lost in thought, spurred on by the intoxicating aromas in the glass and the silky palate feel—special stuff.

Patapon Blanc
Chenin Blanc
$31



Patapon Rouge
Pineau d’Aunis
$31



Le Verre des Poetes
Pineau d’Aunis (old vine)
$36