Increasingly so, it's about the white wines. And I'm not talking about macerated white wines. Maybe I'm just hitting that point in my wine drinking career (if I'm allowed to call it that), where the thought of skin macerated grapes makes me feel tired before the juice even hits the glass. Sure, red wine with meat, fatty fish, and main courses. Yes. But have you ever drank an oxygenated, reductive white with meat? It works too. It also works with a lot of other things. And don't even get me started on people drinking red wine with cheese... Jerome Lambert makes the sorts of Chenin that contains enough depth for the main course, but the bottles are also always perfect for an apéro or just hanging out in the park during the day on a weekend. Coule de Source at one point was all that our friends at Bar Part Time drank, but I'm calling De 'l'Air the real winner in 2023.

Coule de Source 2021
Chenin Blanc
$40



De l’Air 2021
Chenin Blanc (sparkling)
$42