Gabrio Bini (Pantelleria, Italy)
At a certain point both Gabrio Bini, and the iconography of his actual bottles, were two of the most emblematic symbols of natural wine's turn into the mainstream. And while figures such as Frank Cornelissen have fully entered into the popular lexicon, the quality of his wines declining inversely to his rise, Gabrio, and his son Giotto, never stopped making real wine. I feel like Gabrio doesn't really seem to give a fuck about expansion (sure, the Our Legacy collab—though honestly, I'd wear that shirt), and while the Bini's social media presence borders on cringe clever—Genevieve Bini being a creative director by trade—the Seragghia wines continue to just taste too real, too raw, and even sometimes with what the somm types like to call faults (scary...). There's something about Bini’s wines that make them feel like bottles made specifically for family, or for guests who make the sojourn out to the Sicilian island of Pantelleria. For the rest of us, access to these wines remains a privilege, albeit an expensive one; glimpses into some tripped out salty sea air boho Mediterranean summer time island life that most can only dream about. In any case, and while powerful young, these are special wines for the cellar, to be pulled out and uncorked for a worthy moment—bottles that reward patience with soaring aromatics and delicately zesty fruits, always a little too easy to drink.
Pignatello / Catarratto
Riserva Genevieve 2021
Riserva Giotto 2021
Riserva Gabrio 2021